Good brickwork will last a very long time. But in order for it to maintain its excellent appearance and perform all the functions assigned to it, the masonry must be periodically repaired. Even through very small cracks, moisture can penetrate a wall or slab, and when it freezes or thaws, it will destroy the laid brickwork.

Moisture is the main, but not the only pest of masonry. Depending on the deformation and problems encountered, repair of brickwork can be carried out in several directions.

1. Sealing cracks

Be sure to clean any existing cracks from dirt and dust. Then fill the cracks with liquid cement mortar with finely sifted sand (in a ratio of 1:3). It must be poured inside using, for example, a syringe.

If the cracks are more than 5 mm, then to repair them it is necessary to install an anchor or beam. In other words, shift the surface of the wall to a depth of half a brick and a width of 1-2 bricks. Then fill the crack with cement mortar and install a beacon.

If cracks appear in this place again, then measures will have to be taken to establish and eliminate the causes of its formation.

2. Seam repair

1. First you need to get rid of the old solution. Loose pieces of masonry are removed using a chisel and an entrenching hammer. You will need a brush to sweep away crumbs and dust from the seams.
2. Next, you need to moisten the seams and the bricks themselves with a spray. This process is necessary to prevent the bricks from absorbing the new mortar. In addition, this treatment will provide good grip.
3. At the next stage, a pointed trowel and jointing are used. They will give the same type of seam as the old one.
4. All that remains is to fill the prepared seam with a new solution and remove the excess with a brush.

3. Priming before painting

If the brickwork was painted, then the surface was probably damaged as a result of repairs. To restore its former beauty, the repaired areas should be primed again.

As a rule, no primer is required when painting new masonry. But after artificial intervention, a primer is needed so that the paint lays evenly.

Latex primer is ideal for brick walls.

4. Waterproofing

Water most often causes the destruction of brick walls. Therefore, if you decide to put the masonry in order, then at the final stage pay increased attention to waterproofing so that new problems do not arise. A highly specialized cement-based material is suitable. At the same time, during the processing process the surface of the brick must be absolutely dry.

5. The brick is crumbling and destroying the wall, we’ll fix it!

To correct masonry defects caused by crumbling bricks, use plaster over a fine-mesh metal mesh.

1. The place where the brick crumbles must be cleaned to a solid base.
2. Then use bolts and dowels to strengthen the mesh.
3. Next, thoroughly wet the surface of the wall and apply a sand-cement mortar of medium viscosity.
4. For one part of cement, take three parts of coarse river sand. When the wall is dry, all that remains is to wipe down the surface.

Brick is a durable material for construction. This is confirmed by the many surviving castles that have survived more than one century. But, like any building material, brick needs constant care and repair as necessary.

restoration of brickwork

Depending on the stress state of the brickwork,

There are four stages of its work:

1. a state of stress that does not create damage in the masonry;
2. the appearance of minor hairline cracks in individual bricks;
3. With increasing load, cracks unite with each other and with vertical seams, stratify the masonry into separate seams;

4. destruction of the masonry occurs.

It is important already in the first 2 stages to identify the causes of deformation in masonry and evaluate the quality of the masonry work - filling the joints with mortar,observance of horizontality, thickness of seams and their dressing.

Dismantling of stone structures is carried out manually - if damage not large, using manual machines, mechanized or explosiveway. Manual disassembly requires a lot of manual labor, so disassemblybrick and rubble concrete structures are performed manually only with smallvolumes of work and in cases where other methods cannot be used.

When manually dismantling brick walls built with low grade mortars, use crowbars and picks. Disassembly is carried out in horizontal rows, starting from the top.walls. When dismantling brickwork made with durable mortars,use scarpel, wedges, sledgehammers, etc. Repair of walls with rubble orRubble concrete masonry is carried out with a pick, crowbar and jackhammer.

Weathering of seams to a significant depth impairs the thermal properties brickwork by 10-15%, and also reduces its load-bearing capacity by up to 15%.This defect is eliminated by strengthening the seams with cement mortar.

Jumpers with single cracks are restored by injecting liquid into themcement or polymer cement mortar. When repairing arched lintelsthe load from the floors is first removed from them, and then completely shifted.

When repairing wedge and regular lintels, they are strengthened by connecting steel or reinforced concrete beams.

cost of restoration of brickwork

increasing the load-bearing capacity and repairing brick walls

The processes of restoring and increasing the load-bearing capacity of brick walls, as well as repairing walls using traditional methods (reinforced concrete jackets, clips, etc.) are associated with a number of problems caused by the need for underlying structures and foundation foundations to absorb additional loads from the mass of reinforcing elements introduced into the structure reinforced concrete layers. Thus, when constructing a double-sided reinforced concrete jacket with a layer thickness of 5 cm, additional mass per 1 sq. m of reinforced wall is 250 kg.

The disadvantages of these methods include their high material consumption, busy work, reduction in the cleanliness of the internal dimensions of the room, etc.

Therefore, today the most optimal method of repairing brick walls, the essence of which is a method of increasing the load-bearing capacity of brick walls with a low grade of masonry mortar by peripherally replacing the existing mortar in the horizontal joints of the masonry with a polymer-cement mortar, which is superior in adhesive and cohesive properties to similar indicators of brickwork.

The undoubted advantage of this method, along with significant savings in materials and labor costs, is the possibility of carrying out repair and restoration measures without increasing the mass of the wall and without reducing the internal dimensions of the premises.

reinforcement of masonry under beam supports

If cracks appear under the supports of beams and floor purlins, local replacement of masonry sections is carried out, or a distribution reinforced concrete lining slab is installed; Before its installation, temporary fastenings are first placed under the floor beams, which are placed strictly vertically on all floors.

restoration of brick walls

Openings and large holes are sealed with bricks or stones of the correct shape, as well as masonry walls of the appropriate thickness, tying with the old masonry and unstitching the seams.

Particular attention is paid to ensuring that the top of the opening or hole is carefully sealed. When laying the last top row of brickwork, the seam between the old and new masonry is caulked with rigid cement mortar. In this case, the last row is laid and stamped first, and then the front ones.

When sealing a small hole, nest or furrow, first clean the surface of the masonry from debris and wash it with water. Then individual bricks are selected and pinned together. After this, the mortar is thrown into the nest and the prepared bricks are laid. In this case, it is not necessary to tie the old masonry with the new one. The furrows are sealed to the full depth or in the form of a partition enclosing a channel built in the wall.

Sealing beams. The ends of beams are sealed both during the construction of new buildings and when repairing walls. When erecting stone buildings, floor beams are laid along the course of laying the walls: the masonry is brought to the level of the bottom of the beams or support pads, the places for the support pads are marked and they are laid. The top of the pillows is aligned using a level or level. After this, the masonry is increased, erected two rows above the level of the interfloor ceiling, leaving nests for the beams. Nests with a height of more than four rows are laid with an inclined groove for better dressing when sealing. The ends of the beams placed in the nests are secured in the walls with steel T-shaped anchors.

Sealing cracks. Before sealing cracks, it is necessary to eliminate the causes that cause them, and then make sure that the deformation of the walls has ended and the cracks do not increase. To do this, beacons made of gypsum mortar with a width of 50...100 and a thickness of 6...10 mm are placed across the crack in several places. If the walls are plastered, then in the places where the beacons are installed, the plaster is knocked down, the masonry seams are cleared, the masonry and its seams are cleaned of dust and washed with water. Beacons cannot be placed on uncleaned and unwashed masonry, as they will not adhere to it and the increase in cracks in the masonry will not affect the gypsum beacon. The date of their installation is written on the lighthouses. If, for example, two to three weeks after installation, no cracks appear on the beacons, this means that the deformation of the wall has stopped. The period for monitoring deformations using beacons is determined depending on the suspected causes of deformations. Thin cracks are cleaned of dirt and dust and filled with liquid cement mortar, pumping it inside with a mortar pump. Wide cracks are repaired by dismantling parts of the old masonry and replacing it with new one.

When sealing cracks in walls 1.5 bricks thick, the masonry is dismantled and sealed sequentially in separate sections over the entire thickness of the wall in the form of brick locks. If the thickness of the cracks is significant, then anchors or beams are often installed to fasten the masonry. These beams are embedded in the masonry in the same way as lintels are installed over the punched openings.

Punching holes, slots, grooves. Before punching holes, mark their position and, if necessary, install a scaffold of such a height that the punching site is at the level of the worker’s chest: in this position it is more convenient and easier to work.

Holes for electrical cables and pipes with a diameter of up to 40 mm are drilled with an electric drilling machine or punched with a jumper. Rectangular holes are punched with a scarpel, a jackhammer or an electric hammer, starting from the top of the hole.

For thick walls, it is advisable to punch holes first on one side half the thickness of the wall, and then on the other.

Before punching large holes and openings, first furrows 1/3 of a brick deep are made on both sides of the wall above the marked opening. Reinforced concrete lintels or steel beams 1 made of channel are placed in the furrows; the length of the laid sections is 500 mm greater than the width of the opening. The beams are tightened together with bolts 2 at the ends and in the span after 1-1.5 m. The gaps between the top of the beams and the masonry are caulked with hard cement mortar and after it has hardened, they begin to punch through the opening from top to bottom. First, furrows are laid on both sides below the jumper. Then, deepening and widening them, they make a through gap in the wall the width of the opening, and then break the masonry in rows, using ordinary hand or mechanized tools.

Repair of walls. When repairing partitions, adjacent openings are filled with brickwork on clay mortar or temporary racks are installed in them to take the load from the overlying masonry. Then they sequentially dismantle and replace the destroyed masonry with a new one, and after it acquires the necessary strength, the temporary masonry is dismantled or temporary fastenings are removed.

Main directions facade works on which we We specialize in:plaster, putty,facade painting , decorative plaster , restoration of decorative elements, etc.;

Brickwork, which has high strength characteristics, can serve for a very long time. However, various factors can cause the occurrence and accumulation of defects in it, which can destroy it partially, and sometimes even completely. In order to maximize the service life of the entire building, it is necessary to promptly repair the brickwork of external walls, and sometimes internal partitions made of brick.

Causes of defects in brickwork

Knowing the reasons that cause the destruction of brick walls can often prevent these negative phenomena and reduce the costs associated with repairs. One of the main reasons that shorten the life of external masonry is water penetration due to the porosity of the brick. When water freezes, it expands, causing the bricks and cement mortar to break apart. The integrity of the masonry can also be disrupted by vibrations caused by the operation of some equipment or the proximity of large transport arteries. Temperature changes also play a major negative role in this regard.

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Why do cracks occur in brickwork?

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Cracks in the walls of a brick house can be caused by the following reasons:

• shrinkage of the building after completion of construction;
• foundation deformation caused by freezing and uneven thawing of groundwater;
• different bearing capacity of the soil within the building;
• insufficient foundation depth;
• deformation of beam floors or their excessive load;
• construction of extensions without expansion joints.

The reasons for the destruction of masonry may also lie in the illiterate operation of buildings, as well as in the failure to implement such preventive measures as:

• clearing the roof of snow;
• roof repair;
• cleaning and timely repair of drains.

What to do when the first signs of brickwork defects appear

The appearance of the first cracks and deformations is not at all a signal to immediately begin repairs. Before sealing a brick wall, the following preliminary measures should be taken:

• try to find and eliminate the cause of what happened;
• Having established and eliminated the cause, monitor the dynamics of the development of deformation.

If these measures are neglected, the deformation of the masonry may continue even after its repair.

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Observation of the dynamics of the processes occurring in the masonry should begin with the appearance of cracks, the depth of which is 10 mm or more. Observation is made by measuring their depth. In addition, beacons made of paper or plaster can be installed along the crack. If the walls are plastered, then the plaster in the places where the beacons are installed gets knocked off. The seams in the brickwork are cleaned of dirt and washed with water.

Restoring the brickwork of external walls is most effective in cases where the causes of the negative processes that have arisen have been eliminated and when the beacons show that the deformation process has stopped.

We install a plate beacon to observe the crack:

Defects that occur in brickwork and technology for their elimination

The most common defects occurring in brickwork are:

• cracks;
• stratification of rows;
• destruction of the fastening solution in the seams;
• destruction of some bricks;
• deformation of masonry in the form of deviation from the vertical and bulging.

Let's consider the technology for eliminating these defects with your own hands.

Crack repair

Repair of cracks in brickwork should be done only after their growth has stopped. Otherwise, all efforts made will be in vain. If the width of the crack does not exceed 5 mm, cement mortar can be used to seal it. It should first be cleaned of debris and moistened from the inside. For cleaning, you can use brushes, hand grinders, or compressed air. To ensure better adhesion of the mortar to the bricks, it is recommended to knock down the edges of the gap with a hammer.

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If the cracks in the brickwork are of medium size, when their width is 5-10 m, they are sealed in the same way, but with the addition of fine sand.

Cracks wider than 10 mm are considered critical and must be repaired immediately. To eliminate them on your own, you can use one of the following methods:

• The damaged section of the masonry is dismantled, starting from the top row, and replaced with a new one. The material is laid in it using the “brick castle” method. It is recommended to include pieces of reinforcement or metal strips in the masonry that would cover the gap.
• If it is not possible to dismantle the masonry, then the repair technology allows the use of cement mortar supplemented with metal anchors. This metal fastener should be installed in several places along the crack and secured to both edges of the crack using dowels. If it is impossible to install anchors, then the wall must be strengthened from the inside of the house.

When deciding how to seal vertical cracks in brickwork, you should keep in mind that this can also be done using polyurethane foam. In this case, the foam frozen in the crack is cut to a depth of about 2 cm, and the remaining space is filled with cement mortar.

Repair of seams in brickwork

Repairing seams in brickwork

Repair of brick walls is also necessary when the cement that binds the bricks begins to crumble and fall out. When the damage is isolated in nature, we can eliminate the defect quite easily on our own. Repair and sealing of brickwork joints in this case is carried out in the following order:

• old separated cement is removed using a chisel or screwdriver. It is not recommended to push cement fragments inside;
• the bricks adjacent to the damaged seam are wetted with a stream of water, which also removes crumbs of old cement;
• the cleaned joint spaces are filled with new mortar using a narrow trowel.

Fresh mortar used for repairs should contain a minimum amount of moisture. This allows it to better adhere to the seams being sealed. The vertical joints should be filled first. Horizontal seams are filled second. As you approach the top wall, the solution used should be drier than in the internal space of the joints.

Replacing damaged bricks

Replacing damaged bricks

Weathering of brickwork, as well as penetration of moisture into it, can cause cracking or even complete destruction of one or several bricks at once. Since such “holes” in the walls turn into an additional destructive factor, you should never delay replacing damaged bricks.

If the damaged brick is in a prominent location, it may be difficult to find a replacement for it. This is due to the fact that the shades of these products may vary from batch to batch. Moreover, even if there are bricks left from a previously used batch, their color will be different, since bricks installed in masonry are subject to fairly rapid fading.

The approach to replacing damaged bricks depends on the degree of their integrity. If there is only a small crack on the brick, then the repair technology allows such a brick to only be turned with the crack into the masonry.

To remove a brick that has lost its integrity from the masonry, proceed as follows:

• a series of holes are drilled in the cement holding the brick, and the holes are made as close to each other as possible;
• If the cement remains strong and if the brick cannot be removed, you should use a chisel to break up the remaining cement holding the brick in place.

In the case when it is decided to reuse a brick, after removing it from the masonry, it should be placed in a bucket of water. If new brick is used, it should be soaked at least an hour before installation.

The hole where the damaged brick was located must be cleared of any remaining old cement. After sprinkling it with water, a cushion of solution is applied to its bottom. The solution is also applied to the bricks prepared for replacement and soaked from the sides and top. After this, the brick is inserted into the space prepared for it. The voids remaining in the seams are filled with additional mortar.

Elimination of deformations of brick walls

Restoring a brick wall that has undergone deformation must be preceded by identifying the reasons that caused it. It may well happen that you will first have to strengthen the foundation, eliminate the reasons that caused its subsidence, which may require, for example, repairing a nearby water supply system, organizing groundwater drainage, or taking other measures.

The fact of deformation of brick walls can be established:

• visually;
• using measurements;
• by checking calculations of the load on brickwork.

Before you begin repairing brick walls that have undergone deformation, you must:

• check the condition in which the internal structural connections of the structure are located, make sure that there are no breaks;
• check for displacement of supports, beams, floor slabs;
• make sure there are no excessive loads on the masonry.

Destruction of brickwork due to its deformation is prevented by the method of partial or complete dismantling of walls and their relocation in combination with reinforcement carried out according to calculations.

Strengthening brickwork

How to strengthen brickwork?

A reliable way to maintain the integrity of any brick wall is to strengthen it. Is it possible and how to strengthen a brick wall on your own?

Of course it's possible. Currently, reinforcement of brickwork is carried out using the following clips:

• reinforced mortar;
• reinforced concrete;
• compositional;
• steel.

Strengthening walls with the help of such clips allows you to completely restore their load-bearing capacity. At the same time, strengthening work should be preceded by sealing cracks in the brickwork, as well as other restoration operations.

Reinforced clips

Reinforced clips are made from:

• reinforcement bars;
• reinforcement frames;
• reinforced concrete pilasters;
• reinforcing mesh.

To do this, the selected material is secured with studs or anchors on one or both sides of the wall. Improved physical and mechanical characteristics are achieved by applying a cement-sand mortar to the holder.

Reinforced concrete belt

This type of reinforcement is provided using durable steel reinforcement and fine-grained concrete mixture. Such a belt is capable of taking on a significant share of the load on the brickwork.

However, it should be remembered that such a belt has a lot of weight, which significantly increases the load on the foundation of the building.

Compositional gain

Composite materials made from high-strength fibers (glass and carbon fiber) are the most effective for strengthening brick walls.

The peculiarity of this type of clips is that with their help, the compressive strength in vertical structures increases, and the shear or shear strength in cross sections also increases.

Steel clip

The steel structure can significantly increase the load-bearing capacity of brickwork. It is assembled from thick reinforcing bars, strip steel, and steel angles.

This cage is covered with a metal mesh, onto which a layer of cement mortar is applied.

Currently, a modern method of strengthening brickwork is widely used, where ordinary masonry cement is replaced with polymer cement mortar. This method makes it possible to increase the load-bearing capacity of brickwork by 60% without increasing their weight.

Thus, proper care of brickwork, timely repairs and sealing of cracks in brick walls make it possible to significantly increase their strength, reliability and service life.

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Why does destruction occur?

Most often, “emergency help” in such matters is needed when cracks appear in the wall. And the following aspects can serve as factors for their appearance:

• shrinkage of brickwork;
• exposure to groundwater (and subsequent deformation at the foundation);
• insufficient foundation laying;
• uneven soil settlement in different parts of the building;
• deformation of floor beams;
• an extension to the premises that was not made according to technical rules;
• emerging uncalculated loads arising from floors;
• exposure to moisture on the surface.

The last "enemy" is one of the most dangerous. It is able to penetrate even through very small cracks. And then natural elements come into play - and when freezing and thawing, the material will be increasingly destroyed.
Regardless of the reasons that caused the damage to the wall, they need to be addressed. But here completely different methods can be used. Read the link for how to make it.

Repair options

Damage can be very different. But they are the ones who determine the way to eliminate them. The following can be distinguished:

1. Gainbrick walls. It is usually done when ruptures appear (or become obvious).
2. Extending a brick wall.
3. Bookmark the opening.
4. Replacing damaged areas.
5. Increaseopening in a brick wall.
6. Replacement of weakened areas V.
7. Repairing existing cracks.

Gainbrick wall with metal trims

If, after the building shrinks, cracks that are not too large form, they can be secured with metal bolts. To do this, they are placed inside and outside and strengthened.
Strengthening brick walls: emphasis on the supporting part
When it turns out that it is the supporting side that is damaged, it will be reinforced with masonry. Here you will need:

• directly existing support;
• material for new masonry;
• strip type steel;
• concrete and steel corners.

A certain order of work must be followed. He'll be next:

1. The supporting part will be reinforced with brickwork. Moreover, additional reinforcement will need to be done every four seams.
2. You can also reinforce it with steel corners. And then everything is lined with concrete.
3. Sometimes the support is changed completely. For this purpose, all structures that transfer the load to it will be strengthened with a rack with braces. Only after this will it be possible to disassemble them. Subsequent laying of the new supporting part will be carried out again with reinforcement laying every three (maximum five) rows.

Even longer, even stronger!

It often happens that it will be easier to lengthen the load-bearing wall. This is done both with the help of bandaging and without it. If the proposed wall is planned to have only one floor, then it is logical to simply connect the old one with the new one. To do this, it will be enough to cut out nests at a height of three to five rows in the masonry (the depth can be half a brick). And the new wall itself will also be laid using cement mortar.
What to do if the wall is high? In this case, a dressing is not used for connection; the seams are simply laid with roofing felt strips. This is necessary for a tighter fit. A vertical ditch is cut out at the end of the wall (again, it will fit better).
But the resulting slopes at the openings of doors and windows must, on the contrary, be more carefully connected by bandaging - every three bricks. This measure is associated with the risk of joints separating near the surface.

Strengthening openings in brick walls

It will also be possible to strengthen the wall moments between the openings of windows and doors by increasing the cross-section. Of course, this method will make the opening smaller. Here, new masonry will be made on either side. It will be connected to the old one with a three-brick bandage.
When such a reduction is completely unacceptable, strengthening the opening in a brick wall can be done using a reinforced concrete corset. Everything is very simple here - subsequently this entire surface inside the room will need to be insulated with plaster.
If a complete change in the piers is planned, then the opening in the brick wall is reinforced with racks that will have transverse ligaments. The work is carried out using cement mortar; additional measures will be reinforced with wire mesh.

Relaying brickwork: removing weak areas

Often the repair measure is to replace the brick in the damaged area with a new one. Here the order of work will be as follows:

1. The surface areas selected for replacement must be strengthened with metal bolts (you can additionally support them with racks).
2. The replacement will take place in turn: first of all, the edge is attached, then the middle and intermediate ones.
3. After completing the masonry work, these temporary fasteners must be dismantled and the holes created by them must be sealed. The resulting gap itself, which runs between the bottom of the beam and the new masonry, must be wedged with cement mortar in a semi-dry state.

New opening

And sometimes it happens that the design decision will be as follows: it will be easier to make a new opening in place of the collapsing masonry than to repair the entire wall. The whole process will go as follows:

1. The ceiling must be reinforced with various types of beams, racks and wedges. Moreover, the rack can be nailed to the top beam using carpenter's staples.
2. In this case, the wall will be strengthened from the outside with the help of strips that rest against the supports. At the same time, stakes will be driven into the ground.
3. Now there is a groove left on one side. Jumpers will also be inserted there.
4. The areas on which the beams rest are slightly moistened and filled with cement mortar.
5. All that remains is to seal them with bricks (the analogue would be oak wedges).
6. After preparing the solution, you should make the same groove for the remaining jumpers on the other sides and install them using the same method.
7. The final dismantling of the masonry throughout the intended field of activity is carried out.

Old brickwork: restoration

If there is no deformation of the wall, but the appearance itself, on the contrary, is seriously damaged, it is best to think about how to carry out restoration work with such a surface. Here all work will be divided into the following stages:

1. Sealing cracks.
2. Repair of suture material.
3. Priming before subsequent painting.
4. Waterproofing works.
5. Correction of areas with crumbling bricks (additional measure).

Fixing the cracks is half the job. They may appear again: in this case, you should already look for the problem that led to their occurrence.

First of all, you should clean the cracks from dust and dirt that has got there. Next, they are filled with cement mortar, which is mixed with sand (usually the proportions are 1:3). This mixture can be poured into the crack, for example, using a syringe. If there is a hole larger than 5 mm, then the best solution would be to re-lay the brick (the depth of the re-laying will be half a brick, and the width will be about two).
Restorationold brickwork It is very simple: the entire adhesive composition is renewed. The work will go like this:

1. Using tools, loose pieces in the masonry are removed.
2. Use a brush to sweep away crumbs and dust.
3. The seams and bricks are moistened.
4. Using sharpened tools, a new groove is made for the seam.
5. The hollow is filled with solution
6. Residues are removed with a brush.

Sometimes the painted surface of the wall becomes damaged. In this case, you can simply repaint it. But before this it would be useful to prime it. Here experts advise choosing a latex-type primer.
And in order to do this, it is better to use a special material that has a cement base.

It is important to comply with one main requirement - the surface must be perfectly dry.

You can even repair bricks that have begun to crumble with your own hands. Here you will need to do the following:

1. Clean the crumbling area down to a solid base.
2. Strengthen the wall with bolts or nuts.
3. Moisten the surface well.
4. Apply sand-cement mortar (select medium viscosity).
5. When the wall dries, all that remains is to wipe down the surface itself.

There are some relevant tips in the article at the link.

Prompt repairs can protect the structure from destruction. The main thing is to carry it out in a timely manner.
If you still have questions, we recommend watching a video on the restoration of a brick fender:

More on the topic.

Do-it-yourself wall repairs in the house are carried out as needed. It is always necessary to repair brickwork when it has been established that it is collapsing or deformed. Many factors can contribute to this, but they can all be combined into large groups:

1. The action of precipitation, as well as weathering. Moisture that gets into small cracks in bricks and between them with precipitation turns into ice in frost. At this point, the cracks expand, leading to the gradual destruction of the brickwork. Destruction is also facilitated by water itself, which is in prolonged contact with the brick material. The result may be a crumbled element that falls out of the wall. Cracks can be localized only in one brick, or they can run through several rows in the vertical direction.
2. Design flaws. If construction work was carried out quickly to the detriment of quality, the technology was violated, or an incorrect calculation of soil displacements under the weight of the building was made, this may cause defective masonry. Probably, an erroneous calculation of the required foundation depth was made. There could be a discrepancy between the calculated load on the foundation and the actual weight of the house. As a result, huge cracks appear in the brickwork, which extend into the heart of the wall. And sometimes you even get through cracks. In this case, the consequences can be the most dire.
3. Time is destructive to all human creations, and brick walls are no exception. Because stone masonry will collapse even in ideal conditions, but this process is very slow. Noticeable changes can be noticed only after several decades. To eliminate the problem areas that appear, you will have to replace or patch them.

How to restore weak areas of masonry with your own hands

If you can find weakened areas in the brickwork, they need to be repaired in sections. Repair the walls according to the following scheme:

If the brick has not yet been crushed, and small cracks, no more than 4 mm wide, are visible in the wall, then they are completely filled with masonry mortar. You should only do wall repairs yourself if the crack is dead-end and definitely won’t grow. To find out, before starting the restoration you need to fix the plaster beacons. They are installed 30 days before the proposed work in two sections of the split (minimum narrow and maximum wide).

In the event that after a month the beacons remain intact, repairs to the walls begin. If they break, then you need to look for the cause of this phenomenon and eliminate it. If you start laying immediately, then all your efforts will be in vain.

How to replace hopelessly damaged areas with your own hands

Areas of masonry that have been severely damaged must be removed and new stones placed in their place. But starting wall repairs right away is unacceptable. The first step is to distribute the load of the overlying wall between entire sections of the brickwork. To do this, beams are attached above the damaged section of the wall.

In the place where the beam is intended to be installed, a deep groove is made into which a metal beam is inserted. It is secured with anchors that penetrate deep into the masonry and with cement mortar. The beam must be supported using jacks or strong racks that are securely supported.

There is a situation in which the entire thickness of the masonry must be replaced. The right solution would be to remove the load from both sides of the wall. To do this, at least 5 days after installing the first one, install the second beam on the back side of the masonry.

Wall repairs are carried out according to the instructions:

1. The entire damaged area of ​​the brickwork is removed.
2. The resulting surface is cleaned of fragments of brick and mortar and washed with water to wet and remove dust.
3. New bricks are being laid.

To ensure that the wall repairs do not go unnoticed and the brick wall is preserved, it is necessary to follow the sequence of work and subsequently protect the masonry from water. To do this, after restoration, the adjacent masonry joints are renewed and the entire surface of the wall is treated with a composition with water-repellent properties.

Restoration of a brick wall is carried out in order to preserve and strengthen the load-bearing capacity designs. This can be done using different means:

1. Eliminate uneven settlement of the foundation of the house.
2. Installation of metal brackets when cracks with a thickness of 10 cm or more appear.
3. Installation of steel plates on one or both sides.
4. Inserting anchor locks for bricks.
5. Creating a metal frame.
6. Increase in cross-sectional area.
7. Installation of metal or reinforced concrete frames.

If the building has significant masonry defects throughout the building, then restoration of the brick wall begins with the installation of tension belts that are in tension around the entire structure.

When there are violations of the integrity of the masonry in the place where the joint of the floor slabs is located, it is necessary to mount rods made of metal or spacers. These means should create a horizontal stiffener. The effectiveness of this method is very high, but its implementation requires good specialists and high costs. Therefore, it is used during reconstruction work of buildings.

Local methods include the following: creating a cushion of reinforced concrete at the joint of the slabs.

To repair brickwork along a lintel, you need to take the following steps:

1. Remove deformed masonry elements.
2. Use masonry mesh to reinforce the top 3 seams.